The fantastic Borromeo Quartet kicks off this summer’s Music in the Vineyards festival, the smaller, homier wine country festival. The Festival plays a number of vineyard venues during its three weeks, and at this event, at Beringer Vineyards in St. Helena, the intermission features free wine and commentary about the program. The Borromeo are playing Schubert’s “Death and the Maiden” Quartet, Debussy’s Quartet, and J.S. Bach’s St. Anne Fugue — a marvelous piece that has been orchestrated from its organ original more than once. The string quartet is a perfect vehicle for this big-boned fugue.